It was mainly sunny with a stiff breeze on the long climb of the north ridge to Aran Benllyn and the views were extensive from the northern Snowdonia mountains to Pumlumon. Once aloft the ridge is an easy and very enjoyable stroll with a final short pull to the 905m trig point of Aran Fawddwy.

The easiest and best way on to Gwaun y Llwyni is to descend from Aran Fawddwy on the Drysgol path to the memorial, then follow a thin path around the edge to the summit that gives great views into Hengwm below. Our descent was SW along the spine of the ridge and NW down alongside the fence to the Camddwr. A thin path climbs to join the main path to the head of Cwm Cwyarch.

The cloud was thickening and the top of Aran Fawddwy disappeared in mist as we climbed steeply to Glasgwm, and as we pitched the tent by Llyn y Fign just below the summit it engulfed everything.

At dawn the mist was still swirling around but the rising sun appeared intermittently as we followed the fence SW to Bwlch y Fign and the forest corner, and it finally triumphed as we approached Pen y Brynfforchog for a grand view of the Dyfi hills. A fence follows the SW ridge over a couple of minor humps and drops steeply to a stile onto the road by a small car park.

An old track winds upwards among the rocky outcrops of Craig y Bwlch and joins the fence along the Cribin Fawr ridge to a ruined quarry building. The fence leads directly to the tussocky summit but we climbed R to follow the western edge, a little trodden rib with good views, and crossed a rather wet area to the top.

Descending to a bwlch, we dropped our packs and collected water a short way down the ravine. A short steep climb gains the trig point of Waun-oer and then the walking is easy once more along the ridge over Mynydd Ceiswyn with the Cadair ridge looking fine ahead. Passing the ladder stile that marked our descent route, we pitched on the small rise of Mynydd y Waun a little further on.

The morning was beautifully clear with an orange glow on the Cadair ridge and the nearby Tarrens. The path NW from the ladder stile starts clearly enough but becomes indistinct as it drops to a rather boggy area before joining a wall and a good track down to the A487. A short walk up the road is the track leading to the foot of the Gau Graig ridge and we collected water at a tiny stream before the main ford at the stepping stones. Near the top of the field beyond the ford we kept our eyes peeled for the ladder stile some way off to the left that marks the excellent path that climbs Gau Graig through the vibrant heather and rocks with a fine view of the cwm and crags.

Approaching the summit of Mynydd Moel a squirrel was leaping along the edge of the crags. This was the third time we have seen one on high ground in Wales, the previous one was at the summit of Foel Boeth clinging to a fence post and the other on Drum Ddu near Rhayader. The views were superb from the summit plateau and we walked along the edges away from the main central path to maintain the interest on the northern side. There is a fine view of Cyfrwy and Llyn y Gadair from the edge where the Fox's path emerges.

The crowds had invaded the summit area of Cadair Idris as expected with many more streaming up from all directions, but we found a relatively peaceful spot for a snack. Walking around to Cyfrwy, the top was deserted and gave a fine aerial view of Llyn y Gadair and the Cadair cliffs with a strong biting wind whipping over the edge.

Returning along the edge to join the Pony Path is the easiest way down to the bwlch, where we parted company with everybody and climbed the little trodden ridge westwards to Tyrrau Mawr. The unmarked summit lies on the brink of the precipitous drop and the sudden very strong updraught was a nerve wracking moment. At the next bwlch we detoured eastwards to collect water at the Nant Hafotty and climbed steeply to Craig-y-llyn. The ridge continues around to Braich Ddu with a great retrospective view and Llyn Cyri below, and we made a pitch at the grassy top with a view over Barmouth and along the coast to the Lleyn Peninsula.

The wind soon died the next day and curtains of dank cloud hung over the high tops. For interest the area just south of Braich Ddu summit is now forested but the mapped track descending SW is still there and emerges on the byway. The byway is an easy track that makes a very pleasant walk NE to meet the narrow road to Llynnau Cregennen with Bryn Brith standing out ahead.

Having stared at Bryn Brith several times from a distance it was clearly something of a curiosity, a short spiky ridge of dense heather and rock sitting incongruously above the Mawddach estuary. Today it was ablaze with the pinkish purple of its heather finery and would have looked even more striking with some sunshine, but the low cloud prevailed above.

The map shows a path only as far as the first little top (marked as a hill fort), but in fact it continues easily along the ridge to make a complete traverse and joins the footpath around 672154. This is a little gem of a hill which merits a lazy half-day to itself with more time to potter around the rocky outcrops and visit the two small lakes.

The footpath continues to a lane and through a wood to Kings youth hostel. A byway leads from here to the road head at Gellilwyd Fawr, a good path through deserted and fairly wild terrain, leaving a short road walk down to Eldon Square in Dolgellau.