A superb 3-day winter circuit of the mountains and lakes around Beddgelert and Nantgwynant.
The winter clarity in three days of unbroken warm sunshine and very cold nights made this an incredible backpack of crystal clear views and gorgeous frozen lakes. In particular Llyn Edno presented a morning spectacle so magical it surpassed all previous encounters in artistry and scale, one of those defining moments in backpacking when one is in solitary command of the whole wilderness vista and ingesting the atmosphere like a drug. Combined with two dream tent pitches, this is a definite contender for solo backpack of the year already.
The outward leg to Yr Aran from Beddgelert is via Craig Wen, my first attempt at this scarcely mentioned route and therefore an exploratory affair with a frustrating trap for walkers lower down. The route descends via Cwm Llan to cross the Nantgwynant valley to the Ysgafell Wen range and Cnicht, a splendid region of hills and beautiful lakes that begs to be explored at leisure, a backpacker’s dream. The third day was planned to recross the valley via Nantmor and culminate at Moel-ddu, both a Marilyn and Dewey unclimbed summit, but thanks to a misstep at Aberglaslyn Hall I ran out of time at Cwm Oerddwr and the hill defeated me for a second time.
13 Comments
Geoff
Absolutely cracking report and breathtaking photographs. The pictures of Llyn Edno are beautiful.
Thanks very much. Scenes like that are very rare and don’t last long, as always it’s a case of being in the right place at the right time.
Yr Aran’s a cracker eh? Some discreet pitches to be had up there. Was stunning weather at weekend. Good report as usual Geoff and keep getting out and about. No wild camping for me until mid-April now!
Looks like we missed each other by a day on the Moelwyns Geoff! The weather on the Sunday was simply stunning, you were so lucky to get three days of it! As usual some great photos there. I need to get my act together and do my trip report…………
Terry,
Aye, a cracker, last time we were up Yr Aran was 14 years ago, that time in deep snow. Brilliant weather and views.
James,
I remember you mentioning the Moelwyns and wondered if our paths would cross, but I guessed it would be weekend days only for you. The stunning conditions persisted throughout Monday and Tuesday, incredible luck.
That’s a great report and photos Geoff - a really good trip. I’ve been in that area but many years ago. Should go there again.
Phil,
A brilliant trip. I’ll be spoilt for a while now, you don’t get vistas like that outside winter.
Good to be spoilt now and then. Trips like that are dream stuff. Fantastic photos Geoff of fantastic mountains.
Martin,
It sure is, backpacks like that are so good I arrive back home and find it hard to concentrate on anything else - except maybe the next one!.
Wow! The photo’s are breathtaking! Sounded like a fantastic trip. I had a quick taste of Cnicht and the Moelwyns last year and have always planned on returning for a longer wildcamp trip - feels so remote and unspoilt.
Nigel,
Thanks very much, a real stunner. It’s a beautiful area we never tire of, ideal for backpacking with lots of excellent ground for pitching. It does feel quite remote, especially around Llyn Edno and Moel Meirch.
Fabulous photographs Geoff. Superb winter conditions. Most of the hill days i’ve experienced that were “special” have all been in winter. I’m planning on heading up that way fir a wild camp in a few weeks time. Looking forward to it.
Russell,
Thank you, winter always brings out the best in the hills. The Ysgafell Wen area is dream pitching territory with plenty of good spots.
I’ve reciprocated the link to your site, I saw your post about the pitch by the delectable Llynnau Cerrig-y-mwllt.