Blackwater Round: Kinlochleven & Rannoch 4-day backpack

Approaching Loch Eilde MòrA varied low-to-mid level trek through the hills and lochs encircling Blackwater between Kinlochleven and Rannoch, mainly on good paths and tracks.

The northern section ascends in the shadow of the southern Mamore mountains to Loch Eilde Mòr and the wild landscape north of Blackwater, descending via Loch Chiarain to Loch Treig.

The eastern section heads over to Loch Ossian and ascends to join the old Road to the Isles, a good track traversing the flanks of Carn Dearg to Loch Eigheach and Rannoch.

The southern part follows the footpath from Rannoch to Glencoe, ascending through the forest above Loch Laidon and traversing the lower flanks of the Black Corries with views over the wilderness of Lorn.

The westerly return to Kinlochleven uses the fragment of the West Highland Way (WHW) that ascends the Devil’s Staircase for a fine view of the Mamores from the old military road around the flanks of the hills above the River Leven.

Easter holiday week would not be our choice for the long journey to Scotland for a backpack, but the forecast was too good to miss. The warm dry spell had already brought out the crowds in many areas, but on this route we saw only a handful of people in the first two days and none at all on the third. Only when we met the WHW at Glencoe did they appear by the score, but we expected that!.

Full report & photos

Northern Fells 3-day backpack

Sharp Edge & Scales tarnA fine 3-day mountain circuit in the Skiddaw and Caldbeck fells of the northern Lake District.

The outward route heads along the Derwent valley to ascend past the osprey viewpoint in Dodd Wood and climb Skiddaw via the Ullock Pike ridge, a better and more interesting ascent than the laborious direct line up the south face of Carl Side, then leaves the multitudes to head out to Lonscale Fell and the Burnt Horse ridge.

The second day traverses the Caldbeck Fells from Great Calva to Carrock Fell and crosses the Caldew valley to ascend to the Blencathra massif via Bowscale Fell. The route ends with an excellent easy scramble up Sharp Edge to the main summits, returning to Keswick via Roughten Gill and the Cumbria Way along the flanks of the Glenderaterra valley.

A high pressure zone signalled another chance to slot in a Lake District backpack just before the Easter weekend, although the holiday had aready started for some and a few spots were relatively busy, notably Skiddaw but that’s par for the course. The conditions changed from a cold brisk wind at the start to calm, hot weather at the end with a very thick haze.

Full report & photos

Coniston & Langdale 3-day backpack

Pitch on Little StandA 3-day circuit of fells in the Coniston and Langdale ranges. The first two days are a fine mountain backpack, starting with the Old Man to Swirl How ridge and crossing to the Cold Pike group via Wetside Edge and Red Tarn, and continuing over Crinkle Crags, Bow Fell and Esk Pike to cross to the Langdale side via Martcrag Moor. An easy third day ascends Loughrigg Fell and returns to Coniston via the Cumbria Way.

The Coniston fells are separated from the bulkier south-western range by a high 393m col at the summit of the Wrynose Pass, and a backpack route linking them is a mouthwatering prospect that I started to plan a couple of years ago. There were several possibilities for the ascent from Coniston and the continuation after Bow Fell, but for this circular route I chose the direct ascent to the Old Man and a mainly low-level return on the Cumbria Way.

This fine weather slot was the perfect opportunity for a Lakeland backpack before the Easter invasion with a contrast of conditions: the first day was the tail end of a cold very windy spell and the remainder was calm and very warm indeed for early April, but with good clarity and fine views.

Full report & photos

South-East Dartmoor 3-day backpack

River Walkham below Cocks HillA 3-day trek around the south-eastern part of Dartmoor, taking in several tors and fragments of the Two Moors Way (TMW) and Abbot’s Way (AW). The outward arc is via Great Mis Tor across the Merrivale heartland to Higher White Tor and Bellever Tor, crossing the West Dart Valley to Ryder’s Hill. The TMW heads west along the wild Avon Valley for an out-and-back along the south moor to Sharp Tor, and the AW makes a fine walk along the remote Erme valley to pick up an easy return by a traverse of South Hessary Tor.

A high pressure area established itself over southern Britain and signalled a fine weather slot for my second backpack on Dartmoor, but this time the views were very thick and hazy despite the fresh chilly wind on the high moor, the photos needing much processing to bring out the desaturated colour and detail captured in the raw images. This would be a trip to appreciate the local detail and wild atmosphere of the moor rather than the broad vistas.

Full report & photos

Eigiau & Cowlyd 2-day backpack

Inversion from Craig yr YsfaA 2-day circuit of the mountains around Cwm Eigiau. The approach is along the valley of the Afon Porth-llwyd to Llyn Eigiau and Craig Eigiau, culminating at Carnedd Llewelyn and returning via Pen yr Helgi Du and Pen Llithrig y Wrach and along the shore path of Llyn Cowlyd.

The forecast predicted a cold, dull cloudy high pressure area with the best prospect of some sunshine in north Wales, conditions that might favour an inversion with a bit of luck. It came true in splendid style: a superb inversion first seen from my frostbound pitch on the SE ridge of Carnedd Llewelyn and almost unbroken sunshine thereafter with excellent clarity above the mist.

This twilight zone between seasons presents interesting choices when packing kit: I expected to encounter Winter and Spring conditions in close proximity and so it proved to be. I needed all my layers in the windswept clag on Llewelyn and an Exped Downmat for the frozen pitch, but the sun gained real strength and warmth in the sheltered valleys and the small pools in the tracks were already liberally endowed with frogspawn.

Full report & photos

A Hebog Circuit 2-day backpack

Yr Wyddfa range & Nantgwynant from Bryn BanogA short winter 2-day circuit of Moel Hebog and the hills and cwms to the south, including a first ascent of the 553m Moel-ddu, a Marilyn/Dewey top that has eluded us twice before. The outward line is the popular north-eastern approach from Beddgelert, our first ascent via this path, and the return is via Cwm Oerddwr and the excellent riverside path through the Pass of Aberglaslyn. Moel-ddu is tackled as an out-and-back from Cwm Oerddwr: we could see no satisfactory direct continuation to Nantmor.

Our first backpack of 2011, this modest route designed for the short January days felt harder than the figures suggest despite the disappearance of the recent snow and ice and we had little time to spare. The intermittent heavy clouds of the first day gave dramatic skies and cleared away to leave a calm moonlit night on the hills and splendid clarity for the second day with a weak inversion as a bonus.

Full report & photos

Backpacking Stats 2010 and Happy New Year

Stats table 2010

Miles Backpacks Days
Total 442m 14 42
Joint 96m 4 13
Solo 346m 10 29

A belated Happy New Year to all readers and best wishes for 2011, especially those fellow bloggers who have posted about life changes in difficult economic times, I hope events turn out favourably.

14 backpacks and 42 days trekking in 2010 with a tent isn’t bad, considering that we ground to a halt in November with the sudden early onset of deep winter and road chaos. They included some superb backpacks, including the breathtaking Yr Aran and Cnicht circuit referenced in the previous post and another splendid trek on the Isle of Arran.

I was particularly pleased with two linear routes I devised last year: the Blaenau to Conwy trek via the Moelwyns and Carneddau and the Sea-to-Sea via Scafell Pike Lakeland Traverse, both starting and ending at rail stations. Finding new natural circuits is becoming difficult now, I’ll be looking at more possibilities for this type of trip.

Very best wishes to all for backpacking this year.

Season greetings

Just the annual post to wish all readers good fortune for the Christmas period and seriously good backpacking for 2011.

Not much backpacking here for a while, we are waiting for the travel situation to improve - I’m not as brave as some who have made it out to the snowy mountains recently - kudos to them!.

In the meantime, to cheer up the blog a bit and remind me of the conditions at the tail end of last winter, here are a couple of pictures from my Yr Aran & Cnicht backpack, a superb trek and one of the best of all for photos, including a splendid tent pitch and magnificent view of icebound Llyn Edno.

 

Tent pitch below Y Cyrniau

 

Llyn Edno

 

Microspikes and Montrails

MicrospikesThe first significant snow of the season has arrived and thoughts once again turn to traction control. In winter snow and ice we never attempt anything technically difficult, and in recent seasons we have carried - but seldom worn - our Kahtoola aluminium flexible crampons which fit almost any footwear. The aluminiums are a good choice when crampons spend most of their time in the pack and attached only for the occasional section of ice or compacted snow when really required.

The flexies are fairly easy to attach and remove and don’t present any hassle for a significant icy section, nevertheless we often encounter the worst of both worlds: alternating bands of hard snow or icy terrain mixed with bare rock. Walking on bare rock with crampons is excruciating, not to mention the severe wear on the aluminium points, and we usually can’t be arsed to stop and put them on at all, we often slide and muddle our way across the icy bits.

Enter the Kahtoola Microspikes. We have just bought these for this winter, another step down from true crampons. These are small stainless steel spikes mounted on a chain and attached by a simple rubbery stretch harness and are extremely quick to attach and remove. We are hoping these will suffice for most of the snow and ice we encounter and they might actually be used!. The steel teeth are very small and walking should be quite comfortable on the bare hard bits, including icebound valley paths and tracks.

I believe these sold like hot cakes last winter and were seen in large numbers on the hills of England and Wales. There are other simple products designed for everyday use such as icy pavements, but I find it surprising that a product like the Microspikes that bridges the gap between the streets and hills so effectively has taken so long to emerge.

Montrail StratosOn a related note, I’m on the lookout for non-winter footwear again, by far the most crucial item of kit and more important than everything else put together, a search I dread every time it comes around because all the manufacturer ranges have changed. I often bemoan the demise of the Montrail Stratos, the nearest thing to my perfect backpacking footwear that was discontinued, but in an idle moment I casually Googled them and amazingly turned up a result: an eBay shop in the USA had one pair still in stock and they were my size. The webpage had a list price but invited offers: I made one and it was quickly accepted (I could probably have gone down a lot further, I bet they’ve been lying around in a corner for ages).

They have now arrived, but not before an alarming misreport in the online tracking system that left me speechless in disbelief. The parcel was shipped initially into the US Postal Service and the online tracking worked flawlessly until it arrived in GB Customs, where it stayed for a couple of days until the next entry appeared: it reported a failed delivery attempt. What???. They certainly hadn’t called here. Who were “they” anyway?. I searched the USPS website but could find absolutely nothing to assist foreign addressees, it didn’t even say which British courier would be involved, so I didn’t know who to contact. After much Googling I discovered it was Parcel Force, others have had the same problems.

When I typed the US Parcel Id into the GB Parcel Force tracker (and ticked the box that says ‘Incoming international parcel’), things became clearer: that tracking entry was not a failed delivery attempt at all, it was the parcel arriving at the local depot and its status was ‘Awaiting payment of charges’. Of all the stupid messages a tracker could report… words fail me.

Southern Carneddau 2-day backpack

Pen Llithrig y Wrach from Creigiau GleisionA 2-day circuit of the Southern Carneddau mountains that form the northern side of the Ogwen valley between Ogwen and Capel Curig.

The route along the valley joining the two ends follows Penrhyn’s old road, now a pleasant track shadowing the Afon Llugwy below the mountains on the southern side. By tackling this first on the outward leg, I delayed my ascent into Cwm Lloer and gave the mist time to clear most of the high summits on the northern side.

The cold northerly weather stream polished the views to excellent clarity but was initially a turbulent system, still prone to feeding in the odd rogue shower before pressure rose for a crystal clear second day. It had produced the first very light scattering of snow on the dome of Carnedd Llewelyn this season along with dramatic skies and a very cold night.

Full report & photos