North West Isle of Arran 5-day backpack

Pitch on Sail ChalmadaleA fine 5-day backpack in the NW of Arran, including the Beinn Bharrain range of hills on the western side of Loch Tanna, the long wild glens of the north and the high-level path from Lochranza to Laggan.

After a long and hard winter with a significant late snowfall only a week or two before, many Scottish mountains still retained a covering despite the onset of a thaw and we took our flexi-crampons and winter kit. The highest central peaks on Arran did have significant though very patchy snow, but these hills were largely clear and we didn’t need it, in fact after a cold wind on the second day it became really warm with very little wind for the rest of the trip and we walked in base layers in the afternoons. We timed our arrival to coincide with the clearance of a weather front that heralded several days of settled conditions, and the forecast was spot-on: it was sunny throughout until the high grey mist returned on our last early morning walk to Sannox.

Our second trip in the north of Arran and once again the upper glens and isolated hills in the remote heart of the region were completely deserted, a superb area for backpackers and one that makes a powerful and lasting impression.

Full report & photos

RAB Microlight

RAB Microlight Down JacketTime to fill the one remaining hole in my kit list: a very lightweight down jacket for Spring and Autumn. Actually it’s more of a kit optimisation than gap filling.

I already have an excellent Mountain Equipment Lightline jacket, a serious beast for the arctic months that has kept me toasty warm for years, but is overkill for the nights of Spring and Autumn which can be cold enough to demand a good insulation layer but not the real brass monkey temperatures that merit the Lightline. Vivien bought one of these last year and we were impressed by its incredibly light weight and minimalist design for its purpose: no tough outer shell or cords and bobs, just 125g of 650+ down in soft Pertex Microlight. The total weight of this size Large on our postal weighing scales is 320g, exactly the figure stated on the website.

The jacket supposedly packs into its own pocket but I’ll probably use a little nylon stuffsack.

I foresaw an advantage in versatility and overall weight too when used in conjunction with my sleeping bag: I can extend the viable season of my PHD Minim bag, which I regard as a summer-only bag, some distance either side of its previous limits while ensuring I don’t get caught out on unexpectedly cold mornings. It’s a question of optimal distribution of the insulation both for sleeping and sitting up in the tent with my arms and shoulders exposed: if some of the insulation is in the jacket rather than all of it in the sleeping bag, I’m good for both scenarios, and also when popping outside the tent at night. The new arrangement gives a significant weight saving for a worthwhile proportion of the year.

I discovered a mildly interesting thing when buying this online. The lowest price I could find from a normal shop retailer was an offer price of 99.95 at Footprints of Glasgow but there was an eBay shop with a Buy-it-now’ price of 84.95 + delivery. I ordered it from the eBay seller and it arrived today with an enclosed slip from… Footprints of Glasgow!. So… is the eBay shop merely a Footprints web outlet with a different hat on, or is it someone else passing orders through to them?. That’s an increasingly striking trend I’ve noticed nowadays, I often don’t know who I’m really buying from or who is affiliated to who and by what commercial arrangement. When I bought my Berghaus Ortler trousers in Manchester a few weeks ago I literally didn’t know which shop I was in after seeing all the different names and logos outside.

Yr Aran & Cnicht 3-day backpack

Tent pitch below Y Cyrniau looking to the Glyderau

A superb 3-day winter circuit of the mountains and lakes around Beddgelert and Nantgwynant.

The winter clarity in three days of unbroken warm sunshine and very cold nights made this an incredible backpack of crystal clear views and gorgeous frozen lakes. In particular Llyn Edno presented a morning spectacle so magical it surpassed all previous encounters in artistry and scale, one of those defining moments in backpacking when one is in solitary command of the whole wilderness vista and ingesting the atmosphere like a drug. Combined with two dream tent pitches, this is a definite contender for solo backpack of the year already.

The outward leg to Yr Aran from Beddgelert is via Craig Wen, my first attempt at this scarcely mentioned route and therefore an exploratory affair with a frustrating trap for walkers lower down. The route descends via Cwm Llan to cross the Nantgwynant valley to the Ysgafell Wen range and Cnicht, a splendid region of hills and beautiful lakes that begs to be explored at leisure, a backpacker’s dream. The third day was planned to recross the valley via Nantmor and culminate at Moel-ddu, both a Marilyn and Dewey unclimbed summit, but thanks to a misstep at Aberglaslyn Hall I ran out of time at Cwm Oerddwr and the hill defeated me for a second time.

Full report & photos

Arenig Fawr South Ridge & Moel Llyfnant 2-day backpack

Arenig Fawr South RidgeA short winter backpack to one of our favourite locations in the Arenigs: the south ridge of Arenig Fawr, experienced this time in fantastic clarity and part snowy conditions. Arenig Fawr made a majestic backdrop to the snow and ice covered lakes and rocky knolls, and the superb frosty tent pitch in the little trodden heart of this winter wilderness was without doubt one of our best ever. The evening and morning accentuated colours highlighted the features in even sharper relief with a glowing sunset over Moel Llyfnant to the west.

The local landscape was augmented by very clear distant views all around to other snow capped mountains, from the Carneddau and Snowdon, to Cadair Idris, the Arans and the Berwyns, sometimes with dramatic skies. On the second day, after a very cold night and hardly a breath of wind, the waxing strength of the early March sun made for one of those rare occasions when we could sit on a mountain summit near deep drifts of snow and linger a while soaking up the views with a penetrating warmth on our backs.

Full report & photos

Berghaus Ortler trousers

Berghaus OrtlerOne of my very rare posts about walking apparel: not a very interesting subject and I very rarely buy any, other than footwear.

I loathe trousers with a passion. There are things to hate about walking in trousers, the main one being that I’m walking in trousers. For many years I’ve avoided any reason to wear the damned things on the hill, none of them come remotely close to my Ron Hill Trackster Treks for comfort and total freedom of movement. While the very thin Tracksters typically worn by runners can look a bit, erm, figure-hugging, the Treks look a lot better.

In the cold months from late Autumn to Spring I wear a pair of excellent Powerstretch tights underneath them, a superbly warm-feeling and wicking next-to skin base layer that feels like part of the body. This combination is enough for most winter mountain conditions I encounter. However there are times when it’s both very cold and very windy, and nowadays I’m beginning to feel that icy blast overpower the defences and drain my body heat. On such occasions in the past I sometimes resorted to the ME Drilite overtrousers as a windstopper layer, but it was a faff getting my pack off and putting them on, usually I couldn’t be arsed and just soldiered on without them until the next sheltered bit of walking.

Reluctantly there is now a place for wind resistant trousers in the kit list, something with reasonable freedom of movement that I can wear all day in a cold blast without getting annoyed in the calmer interludes or on steep ascents. Windy and very cold conditions were predicted for my recent Dolwyddelan Hills solo trip and an idea occurred to us: Vivien has a pair of Berghaus trousers and I tried them on. They seemed to fit me well despite being labelled ‘Womens‘, once I adjusted to the ‘opposite-handedness’ of the zips. Sometimes I see clothing bearing the ‘DFW‘ moniker and wonder just how beneficial the different cut really is, Vivien has worn ‘Mens‘ items before and not noticed the difference and sometimes they seem to fit her better.

I wore them on that Dolwyddelan trip and they performed well (for trousers), the benefit of cutting that wind penetration outweighed the mediocre locomotion. I was quite happy with them and decided to buy a pair, unfortunately we have no idea what they are and the sales tags have long gone. Time to get psyched up for a plod around Manchester.

Things have changed a lot on Deansgate since I last cast a bored glance at the gear shop fronts. Cotswold have opened what appears to be their ‘normal’ branch (leaving the Oxford Road branch with ‘Rock Bottom’ status selling cheap stuff and clearance lines). The old TNF shop is now confusingly half TNF and half Ellis Brigham, while on the opposite side of the road the old Ellis Brigham shop now says ‘Mountain Equipment’ on the front, but further round it says above the side window ‘Ellis Brigham’. Another schitzophrenic shop has ‘Berghaus’ above one window and ‘Nevissport’ above the other. All these signs are equally prominent and I didn’t know which shop I was in half the time.

Anyway they all seem to have a vast array of jackets and tops of every kind but very few hillwalking trousers. I couldn’t find a pair of the ones we had, so I bought a pair of Berghaus Ortler pants, having a 4-way (?!) stretch material and decent articulation that felt reasonable overall. All these trousers have a pretty tight weave and should give enough wind resistance for my needs, and they have zipped side vents for airing in calm conditions.There are internal adjustable cords around the ankles but I probably won’t use them. The cut is pretty good, unlike some I encountered a while ago that were baggy to say the least.

Nothing more to say about them really: I’ll be trying not to use them, so they should last a long time.

The Dolwyddelan Hills #2 3-day backpack

Pitch on Carnedd y CribauThe first backpack of 2010: a winter return to a familiar circuit of hills from Dolwyddelan, ascending Moel Siabod via the splendid steep rocky ridge of Daear Ddu and following the arc of hills around to Allt-fawr, then returning on the south side via Moel Penamnen and the fine viewpoint of Y Ro Wen.

This time I planned the route as a 3-day trip to allow for short daylight hours and unpredictable winter conditions on the ground, not to mention a drop in fitness after a layoff of several weeks. It would also allow more time to potter around the beautiful frozen lakes of Ysgafell Wen, unfortunately the second day turned out grey and misty giving only dull, almost monochromatic shots of lacklustre ice. The superlative conditions and views on the other days more than compensated and I had two excellent tent pitches.

Most of the extensive snow of the winter had retreated leaving caps on the highest summits, but the forecast predicted very cold icy conditions and a fresh northerly wind. Crampons would grudgingly be stowed in my pack: I took my Kahtoola flexies and prayed I wouldn’t need them, at least they are compact and lightweight as crampons go, and a nylon stuffsack is sufficient to protect other pack contents from their aluminium teeth. Once again I didn’t use them.

Full report & photos

Stats for 2009 and Happy New Year

Backpacking stats for 2009

Stats table 2009

Miles Backpacks Days
Total 412m 16 42
Joint 198m 8 21
Solo 214m 8 21

First and foremost a Happy New Year and good walking to all readers for 2010. We have really enjoyed all the trip reports of fellow bloggers and others over the year.

Our end-of-year review for 2009 is underway and the figures are shown in the table: this time last year I remember thinking that 2009 couldn’t be any worse than 2008 but it was, mainly due to the onset of plantar fasciitis in my right foot late in the year. There were some superb trips though, the real highlights being the new territory in Scotland.

I had a Cairngorms solo trip in perfect weather in early summer and we followed it up with a joint Cairngorms trip in autumn, both magnificent and highly memorable backpacks. The NE Isle of Arran backpack was an excellent varied backpack, the first to a Scottish island on the ferry, with our most beautiful and isolated tent pitch of the year at Loch Tanna and a glorious ascent of Goatfell.

After a hearty traditional Scottish lunch of haggis and a shot of Talisker today, I’m contemplating what 2010 will bring. Until - and if - this foot clears up, the trips will be short and any thought of long treks will have to be put on a back burner for a while. In the meantime, kudos to those who can get out into this spectacular winter scenery and post pictures and reports.

Seasonal greetings

Seasonal best wishes to all readers.

Lake District 2005 pitch

Any hope of a Christmas backpack has been dashed primarily by the weather, in particular the state of the roads: many people seem to have the bravado to drive in these conditions but I’d be a nervous wreck long before I arrived at the hills, not to mention the worry during the walk of a deterioration and possible difficulties getting home. I’m afraid I couldn’t stand the anguish these days, I’ll wait for conditions better suited to a more delicate state of mind - snow on the hills and safe roads below. The Scots must be made of sterner stuff!.

Apart from that I have to consider my recovering foot:- the snow is the most extensive seen for years in England and Wales, I just heard the MRT guy on TV saying that the high deep snowfields in Snowdonia were frozen hard. Even on quite easy routes I would need to do some ‘edging’ and either kick steps or use crampons, and my foot just isn’t up to that level of stress. Incidentally, the MRT news item was about the rescue of a couple of blokes on Snowdon wearing tracksuits and trainers, the usual story - see here - all good entertainment if nothing else.

There’s an interesting point: I’m not sure if my lightweight flexible Kahtoola aluminiums would be adequate. They might be: their stubby spikes are fine in the modest snow and ice typical of recent years and they spend most of the time in my pack, but they have never been tested on extensive deep bone hard snowfields. Perhaps the Kahtoola steels with longer aggressive spikes would be required. The critical factor must be how steep the route is, and we always stick to reasonably gentle backpacks in winter conditions. I just thought of something else: ice axes!. We haven’t carried ice axes since 1996, conditions have never demanded them on our winter routes but they would be advisable right now I should think.

Anyway above is a picture of a pitch in the Lake District in 2005 to remind us of better times.

Arans: Creiglyn Dyfi 2-day backpack

Dawn sky from pitch at Creiglyn DyfiA short backpack in the northern Arans with the objective of a pitch by Creiglyn Dyfi, designed for the brief daylight hours approaching the winter solstice and the delicate condition of my foot, still recovering from plantar fasciitis (it’s going to be a long haul with this).

We had promised ourselves a pitch in this excellent location for some time and this was a perfect opportunity: a weekday in December and a very high probablilty of solitude. The whole area below the main ridge is seldom trodden even at the best of times, but the lake could be a magnet for the very few who explore these parts. The visibility was excellent for the most part and the clear frosty morning by the lakeside made an idyllic pitch.

The recent atrociously wet weather and its consequences further north in Cumbria had been headline news for the past month, and although Wales escaped those epic floods, it still received a fair old deluge and the ground rated an 8 or 9 on the squelchometer at times.

Full report & photos

PF and new orthotics

Gaitway orthotic
The Plantar Fasciitis saga drags on and the more I discover about it, the less I like it (besides, I don’t have much else to post about at the moment!). Accounts vary wildly, ranging from those who recovered in a few weeks to those who have suffered for years without success and given it up as an intractable problem that they have to mitigate and live with.

I thought I’d garner an opinion from the doctor and I was taken aback by her appraisal of the condition: she seemed quite dismissive of the whole thing and quickly scotched any hope of a definite early solution, stating - more or less - that there is no scientific evidence that any of the available treatments are really effective. Her prognosis:- everyone is different but typically there is a good chance that it will clear up in about a year. Oh great!. Still, it does explain the inconsistencies.

I described the exercises I was doing and she agreed they were a good idea, if only to lessen the discomfort and possibly help it to mend slightly faster. They are a good idea anyway actually, I was previously not paying enough attention to suppleness and stretching .

She did say that it might be worth trying a course of Ibuprofen, which has been known to help some people at a dose of 400mg 3 times per day, and although I don’t like the idea of taking NSAIDs regularly, it’s worth an experiment for two weeks. Generic Ibuprofen is much cheaper than the branded ones and I bought them at Tesco, but I hit a problem at the checkout with my six boxes: they are not allowed to sell me more than two at a time. I’m nearing the end of the course now but I can’t yet say if the PF has actually improved:- Ibuprofen is of course a pain killer.

It already feels like an age since I was out backpacking and PF won’t stop me, but some of my ambitious fast-and-light long route ideas will have to be shelved for a while. Since the physio confirmed that my old rigid orthotics no longer fit accurately (and might be doing more harm than good), I bought an off-the-peg pair of Gaitways that are firm and supportive but well cushioned under the heel. They seemed very wide at first but felt great in my normal shoes on a walk around town. I’ll be evaluating them on the next backpack.