On the ferry we again saw a motley array of monster bone-buckling backpacks, bulging with stuff and festooned with camping paraphernalia on the outside as well: perhaps this is a new hobby BackCracking.

The bus ride from Brodick ferry terminal around the north end of Arran to High Dougarie was a shaky experience at times, especially as we decided to sit at the back: a full-length single decker bus winding around some tight curves and letting rip on the straight sections of a bumpy and not-very-wide road. On several occasions we literally left the seat and landed back with a thud. The driver was very helpful though and knew from our backpacks where we needed to alight: he dropped us at the exact spot where the signed footpath to Glen Iorsa leaves the road (this is not the access track to Dougarie Lodge, it is a short way NW beyond a bend in the road).

The mid-afternoon start was just right for a climb of the first western hill Sail Chalmadale. The path joins a good track into Glen Iorsa following Iorsa Water, crossing a footbridge over the Allt na h-Airighe and arriving at a concrete ford at Glen Scaftigill: there is no longer a footbridge here but the water was shallow enough for us to walk through dryshod. Just beyond the ford we left the track for a faint sketchy path ascending NE near the stream, aiming towards an obvious little peak on the skyline. The line petered out higher up but reappeared later to pass the left side of Loch Sail Chalmadale at the foot of the final slopes.

A straightforward ascent of the south ridge gains the 480m summit cairn, a grand viewpoint in the late sunshine for the full length of Glen Iorsa and the exquisite wilderness region ahead to Loch Tanna, on whose shores we made a highly memorable pitch on our last visit to Arran. To the NW lies the Beinn Bharrain chain that we would tackle the next day, while across the glen lies the range of mountains from Beinn Nuis to Caisteal Abhail.

A short way north of the summit we made a fine pitch with that excellent view of the heartland from the tent door, there could hardly be a more enticing vista in the sinking sun and rapidly falling temperature.

At dawn the clear dry air and a chilly breeze saw the views in a new eastern light and the tent flysheet was unusually bone dry. We contemplated the possible lines of ascent to the Beinn Bharrain ridge ahead as we descended to the foot of Cnoc Breac and dropped down to Lochan nan Cnamh, still partly snow covered. Above the lochan the next bealach is typical of these parts: pretty wet but liberally peppered with rock and easy to walk across, even with the snowmelt water to swell the volume.

We made our way over the shoulder of the next 388m rise that forms the headwall of Glen Scaftigill to arrive at Dubh Loch, nestling at the foot of the ridge and hidden until the last moment, a delightful spot making a picturesque foreground to the snow-flecked slopes.

After surveying the ascent options on the steep slopes of broken rocks and heather, we chose a heathery strip climbing north-westwards through the rocks: it turned out surprisingly easy going underfoot despite the angle. Higher up we met a thin path coming up from further north and running westwards which took us almost to the ridge, where the terrain was very easy cropped grass and rock leaving a short ascent to the summit and trig point of Mullach Buidhe.

On the ascent there was a grand aerial view over Dubh Loch and Loch Tanna towards the central high peaks, while the summit gave clear distant views to the Kintyre peninsula and the islands further west and down to the cliffs of the north-eastern corries. Beinn Bharrain is the pointy spur at the western extremity, but according to the only couple we met on this traverse, the name is used to refer to the whole ridge.

Descending to the bealach, the cold wind had strengthened and we raised the hoods on our shell jackets, a total contrast to the warmth of the sheltered Dubh Loch. There was a fine view of Glas Choirein and the next summit Beinn Bhreac, still sporting a quite deep line of snow along its western rim and giving more excellent views.

The ridge path descends northwards and climbs a small hump with spot-height 653m, a good vantage point for a retrospective view and forwards along the rim of Coirein Lochain, still snow lined and presiding over Coire Fhionn Lochan below. En route we appraised the scene ahead for the ascent options for Meall nan Damh.

Nearing Meall Bhig we veered right towards the headwaters of the streams that drain the bealach eastwards and crossed to join a thin path climbing around the southern slopes of Meall nan Damh. On reaching the SE ridge the path resolutely carried on around the eastern slopes to who knows where, and we left it to climb the ridge line on easy short heather and rock to the summit cairn.

An isolated hill in a commanding position at the end of the ridge, it gives extensive views all around and a great view of upper Glen Catacol to Loch Tanna. We made an excellent pitch quite near the summit.

Another clear sunny morning and we descended easily NNW on very short heather and rock to around the 500m contour, where we decided to continue down the NE slopes to visit Lochan a' Mhill: this direct line is not recommended!. As the slope got steeper the heather got bushier, concealing hidden rocks to throw every careless step and make the going very arduous. The descent took a long time and we arrived at the lochan with much relief, though it is a very quiet and attractively wild spot.

From the outflow stream a path develops on the NE side, becoming quite prominent for a while as it passes along the rim of a little rocky gorge before dissipating again in the bracken lower down. In any event the route is easy enough: we followed the stream down to the watersmeet of the Allt nan Eireannach and Allt Cilloug where they are very easily crossed to the north side. A path heads NE to descend alongside a deer fence to a gate at the bottom which leads onto a good track out to the car park at Catacol Bay.

We crossed the bridge and headed up into Glen Catacol, forking L on the higher path up to a gate in the deer fence and onwards into Gleann Diomhan. This glen path is only around 2 miles long but somehow seemed much longer, at any rate it is a fine walk back into the heart of the region. Apart from a distant forward view at one point, the waterfalls marked on the map are hidden from the path in a deep defile. In the marshes alongside the Abhainn Mor we saw a colony of breeding toads and their dark strings of spawn.

The path gradually marched ever upwards near the slowly dwindling stream and its many little tributaries, constantly deceiving us with an illusion of mountainsides closing in to a V-shaped glenhead below Beinn Bhreac, but we were basically walking around the sides of a cone - it always looks the same. Finally our patience was rewarded with the sudden appearance of the arresting shape of Cir Mhor above the approaching bealach. Soon we recognised the other snow-streaked mountains that emerged to join the spectacle, from Caisteal Abhail and A' Chir to Beinn Tarsuinn and Beinn Nuis.

We easily crossed the deserted wide wet bealach on the numerous stony bits and offloaded our packs to soak in the view in the warm late afternoon sunshine - what a magnificent spot for a pitch today!. Later we sat outside to eat our evening meal and further absorb this splendid atmosphere.

The low hazy sun over the peaks warmed the tent as we packed up the kit for the next leg around to Loch na Davie and Gleann Easan Biorach. Near the centre of the bealach is the rare sight of a marker cairn, indicating where the path can be picked up after crossing the wide stony expanse: it descends gradually in a wide arc turning northwards into the cleft between Beinn Bhreac and Carn Mor. Glen Iorsa can now be seen from its head and Sail Chalmadale reappears.

From Loch na Davie, Gleann Easan Biorach is a good scenic walk but the path can be a little exasperating at times: a scruffy braided mixture of wet furrowed peaty bits, stony bits and vague marsh where it almost disappears for a while, rarely is it possible to get into a normal walking stride and it becomes quite time consuming. The ravine at the watersmeet of the Allt Dubh is an attractive spot and there is a low waterfall further down, while the prominent Torr Nead an Eion dominates the lower glen. In one of the grassbound pools we saw an adder sinuously emerge and disappear into the tussocky grass.

Nearing the foot of the glen a good path is established, skirting the lip of the deep gorge where the river makes its final descent in a waterfall, and furnished with a guard rail. The path emerges close to the distillery Visitor Centre at Lochranza.

We took the lane opposite the Field Studies Centre and turned R to join the signed high-level path over to the Cock of Arran and Laggan. This is apparently a quite popular route over the headland and initially follows a private unmade road to an information board at the foot of the open hillside, pointing out some of the wildlife you may - and probably won't - see on the walk. We did see another adder basking by the path in the very warm sunshine but he didn't get a mention on the board.

The path is a good one, beautifully graded and resembling a well made shooting track higher up as it approaches the heathery upper slopes. At the highest point Bearradh Tom a ' Muidhe, we left the track and followed a short thin path through the heather, probably just a popular short diversion to optimize the view, and continued further to seek a pitch. We found a good pitch, another fine spot with a very different atmosphere from previous nights, but a relaxing location for eating outside again with extensive views to the north and east over the sea.

At dawn the fine clear weather spell had broken: the sky was grey and mist lapped the summit of Fionn Bhealach to the SE. The timing of the trip was perfect: our objective today was just a descent to the coast path and walk into Sannox for the bus to Brodick. The high-level path descends gradually to Laggan cottage and joins the Isle of Arran Coastal Way path into North Sannox. The sun made a feeble attempt to penetrate the gloom on the way down and did briefly produce a pleasing light on the sea.