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North Blaenau Hills 2 days / 9 miles (14km)

OS Route Map → Map GPX Route file →

Date: 10 Apr 2025
Start: Dolwyddelan / Finish: Blaenau Ffestiniog.
Maps: Explorer OL18 Harlech & Bala.

Day 1Moel Penamnen4.0miles / 1627 feet (6.3km / 496m)
Day 2Foel-fras & Llyn Bowydd5.0miles / 281 feet (8.0km / 86m)
The Moelwnion from pitch on Moel Penamnen

A short 2-day trek of the hills and lakes north of Blaenau Ffestiniog.

The outward line is a new route to Moel Penamnen, ascending through the valley of the Afon Hafod-llian and approaching the summit via the broad north-east ridge.

The second part ascends Foel-fras and crosses southwards to Llyn Bowydd for an easy descent to Blaenau via the maze of quarry tracks above the town.

The first trip of 2025 after a long winter layoff, combined with health issues including an intractable foot problem and a marked drop in fitness, required a short adaptable route with good options. As it turned out, this trip was very instructive and we took the shortest option for the second day. Slackpacking is a term we have sometimes coined for a very relaxed and modest approach to backpacking, it seems this will be the new modus operandi from now on.

The weather in the last couple of weeks had been striking: clear blue skies but with quite strong cold winds in the hills. We just caught the last two days of clear conditions when the wind had subsided and the days were very warm, an excellent and enjoyable first trip of the year.

Day 1 - Moel Penamnen

The public footpath heading westwards from Dolwyddelan station follows an access track to a gate by the house and ascends into sparse woodland on a well laid path with views of Moel Siabod and the remains of a small quarry. Where the path levels out, we forked left across a small enclosure to a ruined metal gate to gain an onward line that later joins the public footpath up the valley of the Afon Hafod-llian. At the closest approach to the stream we diverted to collect water, the last opportunity on this route, certainly in these very dry conditions.

The path reaches the head of the valley at the forest edge with a view to Y Ro Wen. A quadbike track continues directly up the north-east ridge, curving around over some minor humps directly to the summit. There were good views back over the broad ridge to Moel Siabod and the eastern Carneddau.

Rock face & Yr Wyddfa mountains from woodland path
Rock face & Yr Wyddfa mountains from woodland path (09 Apr 2025__12:52:28)
Y Ro Wen from head of Afon Hafod-llian valley
Y Ro Wen from head of Afon Hafod-llian valley (09 Apr 2025__14:53:36)
Moel Siabod & eastern Carneddau from the NE ridge
Moel Siabod & eastern Carneddau from the NE ridge (09 Apr 2025__16:30:03)

We felt that ascent was quite enough for one day under the circumstances and we made a great pitch for a relaxed evening in the warm sunshine. The air started to turn hazy but there were fine views to the Manods and more distant Arenigs. Later the low evening light cast a warm orange glow over the landscape.

Pitch on Moel Penamnen with the Arenigs and Manods
Pitch on Moel Penamnen with the Arenigs and Manods (09 Apr 2025__17:10:03)
Evening light on the Manods from the pitch
Evening light on the Manods from the pitch (09 Apr 2025__19:47:30)

Day 2 - Foel-fras & Llyn Bowydd

A near-full moon illuminated the tent as the sky brightened to another clear morning with a warm early glow on the mountain scene. The Manods and surrounding lakes stood out to the south and Yr Wydffa and the Glyderau to the north-west over Llynnau Barlwyd below.

Early light on the Manods and lakes from the pitch
Early light on the Manods and lakes from the pitch (10 Apr 2025__07:17:17)
View over lower Llynnau Barlwyd towards Allt-fawr
View over lower Llynnau Barlwyd towards Allt-fawr (10 Apr 2025__07:18:37)
View over upper Llynnau Barlwyd towards the Glyderau
View over upper Llynnau Barlwyd towards the Glyderau (10 Apr 2025__07:19:32)

A grassy path heads eastwards directly to Foel-fras, an undistinguished top whose unmarked summit is somewhere next to the fence. Descending southwards there was however a very fine morning view to the Manods and Moelwynion over Llyn Newydd.

Heading eastwards parallel to the forest fence, a line we have walked before, there is some weaving around to avoid boggy bits. The southern arm of the forest is now felled, the remaining brash making a rather scruffy sight as the intermittent path arrives at a ladder stile.

View from Foel-fras towards Manod Mawr
View from Foel-fras towards Manod Mawr (10 Apr 2025__09:05:42)

There is no consistent path by the fence heading southwards towards the reservoirs, but there are intermittent fragments of a trodden line on the eastern side across the often boggy moor. The fence passes the slate spoil of the disused Cwt-y-bugail quarry to emerge on the reservoir track.

From here we followed my route from the South Machno Hills trip, an easy walk with plenty of time to sit and savour the atmosphere. I noted on my trip that the track was waterlogged in places but the conditions have recently turned unusually dry for April, still the frogs were undeterred as usual and the large puddles were teeming with tadpoles.

Llyn Bowydd
Llyn Bowydd (10 Apr 2025__10:39:33)
Llyn Bowydd
Llyn Bowydd (10 Apr 2025__10:42:33)
Llyn Bowydd
Llyn Bowydd (10 Apr 2025__11:13:59)

This time we made a brief diversion to see Llyn Newydd that lies above the level of the track, its gravelly shore giving another foreground to the hills beyond.

One of the quarry lakes on the descent to Blaenau presented an attractive picture with its blue water and slate background glittering in the sunshine.

Llyn Newydd
Llyn Newydd (10 Apr 2025__11:41:50)
Quarry lake
Quarry lake (10 Apr 2025__13:10:28)