Wetlands and Waterways Loop day walk

View from WWT Harrier hideA few photos from a single day walk of the Wetlands and Waterways Loop (WWL) route that, according to Visit Sefton, takes you around some of the flattest land in west Lancashire. Pretty cottages, nature reserves and quaint waterside pubs are just some of the things you can see along the way.

The route passes Martin Mere, a site of the Wildfowl & Wetlands Trust, where a visit makes a delightful addition to the route.

Report & Photos

Extended Nantlle Ridge Traverse 3-day backpack

Nantlle ridge from Craig y BeraA superb 3-day extended mountain traverse of the Nantlle ridge, including the outliers of Moel Tryfan and Mynydd Mawr to the north and Craig-y-garn to the south.

The deeply quarried Moel Tryfan is designated as a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) for its geological importance and historical significance in the development of Glacial Theory. For walkers the slate quarrying operations have left a striking landscape of rocky cliffs and vividly coloured pools that briefly adds great scenic interest to the route.

The isolated rocky dome of Craig-y-garn has often caught my eye whilst perusing the map and is honoured with an OS 360° viewpoint icon, yet I’ve never seen it mentioned in any report or forum. Though modest in stature at 360m compared to the Nantlle mountains, there is more subtlety to a viewpoint than height as I discovered on this little known and great rocky gem.

The Nantlle ridge is of course famed as one of the grandest ridge walks in Wales, including the very engaging rocky clamber up Mynydd Drws-y-coed (I wouldn’t call it a scramble), yet on this clear sunny day I saw just a handful of walkers spread over the entire traverse. No doubt many day-walkers are discouraged by the logistics of returning to the start point for a circular route, but it’s no problem for backpackers.

My strategy for the last section to Porthmadog involved footpaths in totally unknown territory and, as has happened before, it turned into another Welsh footpath adventure that ended partially in retreat to reliable minor roads.

Full report & photos

Glyndwr’s Way Intro 2-day backpack

The last ever Lasercomp pitchAn experimental trek to test my capabilities for moderate long distance backpacking using the intro section of the Glyndwr’s Way (GW) national trail.

I’ve backpacked a few of the trails as “fast-and-light” trips, but they were easy and, apart from my Hadrian's Wall trek, they were quite a long time ago: I wanted to test how I would fare now on a moderate trail maintaining the same pace, or reasonably close to it, and carrying about the same loads. To complicate matters there were impending rail strikes that would determine when decisions had to be made. The GW intro from Knighton was a good test candidate, often rising and falling as it weaves its way through the hilly landscape in the heart of Wales.

Making heavy work of the ascents, the result was apparent quite quickly: no way could I sustain this pace on this grade of route with this weight. I just managed the first planned pitch ok, but it was later than expected and my legs really knew about it. The worryingly tiring ascents were sapping the enjoyment from the walk. The next morning was the last day before the rail disruption and I had my definitive answer, I made the decision to abort and caught the bus at Llanbadarn Fynydd to Newtown.

That morning another final decision was made: after a particularly frustrating battle with the pitch, that much loved hated Laser Competition tent was destined for the bin when I landed home. Our long abusive relationship ends – now. Next time stealth is required it will be my Exogen despite the higher weight.

GW is well waymarked here and mainly follows farm tracks, field paths and narrow lanes on this section. This is a trek of broad general views over rolling hills and I took only a few photos. Despite being a national trail, I didn’t see another person for the entire walk, even on the lovely Garth Hill woodland paths on the outskirts of Knighton.

Full report & photos

Mynydd Mynyllod & North East Arenigs 2-day backpack

Pitch at Moel Cae'r-ceiliogA two day trek taking in the high country north of the upper Dee and a new crossing route to a southerly approach to the north eastern Arenigs.

The outward section takes a new line to gain the old familiar ground of Mynydd Mynyllod. The crossing explores new territory including the little known Llyn Caer-Euni and ascends the easternmost hills of the Arenigs from the south, including the new summit of Orddu.

As is often the case, following little used public footpaths in god forsaken parts of Wales was at times… interesting. On routes such as this, I’m beginning to like GPS based phone mapping more and more if only for its accuracy in nailing down the precise line of the right-of-way and our current position. We made extensive use of it on this trip.

This was a curious weather stream, forecast to be generally dry and fine but with unpredictable cloud: the first day was mostly sunny but the second was completely misted out in the Arenigs – win some, lose some. The whole area was completely deserted save for a couple of local residents.

Full report & photos

The Delamere Way day walk

Blakemere MossA few photos from a single day walk of the Delamere Way (DW) waymarked trail that runs south from Frodsham, east through the Delamere Forest and northwards through Cheshire countryside to Stockton Heath on the southern outskirts of Warrington.

Inspired by a dry but mediocre forecast with sunshine at a premium, this trail near to home was a fitting choice, a good distance with little ascent save for a short sharp one to Beacon Hill near the start.

The route is generally well waymarked with the DW arrow except, surprisingly, in the Delamere Forest itself where you need to keep a careful eye on the map amid the numerous tracks and woodland paths.

Full report & photos

Longdendale & West Bleaklow 2-day backpack

Pitch on Bleaklow HeadAn almost circular station-to-station route in the western Dark Peak, starting at Hadfield and ending at nearby Glossop.

The Longdendale Trail starts at Hadfield station and follows the course of the old Woodhead railway for 6½ miles (10½km) past several reservoirs to the closed Woodhead tunnel entrance where it crosses the bridge to enter the River Etherow valley and ascends to Bleaklow via Near Black Clough.

It then takes the very familiar section of the Pennine Way from Bleaklow Head across to Mill Hill and descends via a new line over Chunal Moor to Glossop.

Having reluctantly refrained from winter backpacking this season after medical issues last year, the forecast seemed benign for an early April first trip but we clearly misjudged it this time: despite many years of deep winter mountain camping experience with no difficulty, this pitch on Bleaklow Head will be forever remembered as the coldest we have ever been and a stark warning.

Full report & photos

Devisdale and Dunham Massey day walk

Smithy Pool, DunhamA local winter stroll around Devisdale Common and Dunham Massey in sub-zero temperatures and a thin covering of snow.

The trees had retained a pleasing amount of colour into early winter and the local views were enhanced by the snow, here are a few pictures.

Another local walk earlier in the week in similar frigid temperatures had been unpleasantly revealing: following the DVT and pulmonary problem that hospitalized me a few years back, the consultant recommended not to do strenuous activity in winter conditions as we have in the past: deep breathing very cold air is asking for trouble and it really hit me on that walk. I fear our hard winter backpacking will now be consigned to memories.

Walk Photos

Western Arenigs 4-day backpack

Pitch on Moel OernantA 4-day trek through the western Arenigs from Trawsfynydd to Dolgellau, revisiting some hills and lakes from years ago, some we skirted on more recent trips and picking up one new summit. The route explores some new territory and approaches to connect the sections in the northern half.

Another route designed for a summer bank holiday, an Arenigs trek will always fit the bill, mostly deserted especially on some of these tops via these approaches. This was intended as a 3-day route but, not wanting to travel back on a bank holiday Monday, I decided to stay another night and make the last two days a very relaxed slackpacking experience. The northern half involves a great deal of trackless terrain: in many parts of the Arenigs this, along with solitude and a feeling of wild remote Wales, is what you sign up for!.

Unfortunately I had a camera mishap near the start of the first day: somehow I must have unseated the memory card. At the end of the day in the dimmer light, I saw that the camera was showing a warning "NO CARD", but it still went through all the motions and fired the shutter even with nowhere to store the picture. I fixed the problem but all the previous shots from the day were sadly lost.

Full report & photos

Southern Arenigs & Rhinogydd 4-day backpack

Llyn Hywel & Rhinog FachA linear 4-day trek from Rhydymain to Barmouth, revisiting the southern Arenigs region and crossing the Afon Mawddach valley via the Coed y Brenin forest park to Cwm Camlan for an unusual eastern approach to the ridge of the southern Rhinogydd.

Once again the Arenigs were a good escape for the height of the summer season, the high ground was completely deserted until we reached the southern Rhinogydd ridge where the Ultra-X Wales multi-day marathon event was taking place this week. Their route across the headwaters of the Afon Gamlan and southwards along the Rhinogydd ridge coincided with ours, the initial rough and little trodden section to Llyn y Bi being marked at frequent intervals by little multicoloured flags poking out of the heather and tussocks. We reached Cwm Camlan late in the day when they had all long since passed but the stragglers caught up with us next morning.

Like our Arenigs trip last year, and in similar sweltering hot weather with unbroken sunshine, the main focus was on reliable water which often meant a heavier load and more strenuous walking.

Full report & photos

West Bleaklow & Kinder North 2-day backpack

Rock formations on Ashop EdgeA 2-day linear trek taking in the mountain summits of western Bleaklow, the northern edges of Kinder Scout and a traverse of Win Hill above the Hope Valley.

The approach from Glossop is via the Yellow Slacks and Shelf Moss route to Bleaklow Head and Higher Shelf Stones. The Pennine Way (PW) gives an easy traverse to Mill Hill and the Kinder plateau, taking the northern edge line of Ashop Edge, Seal Edge and Blackden Edge to Crookstone Hill. The final section passes Hope Cross and traverses Win Hill for a descent to Bamford.

Compared to the popular southern edges of Kinder, the northern edges are much less trodden, wilder and somewhat more taxing and time consuming. There is a path to follow the whole way, almost always clear, but it involves a lot more weaving through gritstone outcrops and boulders that present excellent rock formations on the plateau edge.

The very dry conditions gave a good opportunity to make the traverse to Bleaklow’s secondary summit Higher Shelf Stones, our last visit being over 20 years ago, and the nearby aircraft wreckage of the RB-29 Superfortess "Over Exposed" that crashed here in 1948.

Regarding this tragedy, we just discovered a firsthand account by a member of the recovery team of the operation carried out here in bleak November moorland conditions by the MRT in conjunction with American military personnel.

The account is teeming with fine detail, albeit grim and gruesome at times, that gives a powerful insight into the practical and personal aspects of the recovery using period equipment. An evocative and rivetting piece, highly recommended.

Full report & photos